Photos courtesy of Reva Cox.

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To ensure your journey during the locking process is a comfortable one, use your judgment (as well as advice from your stylist if you use one) as to when it is time to have your hair redone. As the hair begins to mat and change in appearance you may even get to a point where you want to cut off your hair. But if you remind yourself that this is a journey and that the end holds a great reward of beautiful lovely locks you can make it through!

Baby Locs
Your new locks are considered baby locks for the first three months or so, depending upon your hair's texture. Soft, fine, wavy hair takes longer to lock than coarse, curly, nappier hair. Baby locks should be maintained at least every two weeks. That includes washing and re-twisting or palm rolling. The hair may also be oiled if needed. You can apply gel to the locks in between salon visits or home grooming to help baby locks stay intact. Baby locks also hold better if they are tied down or kept covered with a scarf. Some people will tell you not to cover your hair with cotton because it pulls and can fuzz or frizz the hair, but cotton has the advantage of allowing the hair to breathe and absorbing excess oils and moisture. On the other hand, silk and satin allow oil to sit on the hair and can give baby locks a sweated-out look. Each has its pros and cons and so you will need to decide which is right for you.

Whether in a salon or at home, baby locks should be washed very gently. The most commonly asked question I get is, "When I went to the salon to have my baby locks re- twisted, they all came out. Is this normal?"  It is conceivable that some of the new twists will wash out. Finer and wavier hair textures will no doubt come undone at first. But with tighter curl patterns and medium to coarse textures a gentle stream of water will minimize the amount of twist that unravels. The hair should be shampooed with a gentle rubbing motion in one direction. The hair and scalp should not be massaged or mussed at this stage. The hair should then be rinsed with a gentle stream of water until all lather is gone and then the hair should be re-twisted or palm rolled and allowed to dry. The hair should also be oiled.
(Great Shampoo Option: To shampoo with minimal disturbance to your Locs, use the "new" FoamBurst Shampoo by Nubian Secrets, which allows you to just spray action-foam into your Locs.  This automatic deep penetrating cleanser requires NO massaging at all. Just rinse afterwards with a gentle stream of clean water. This FoamBurst Shampoo washes in strength to your Locs & moisture to your scalp with African Shea Butter and Vitamin B5 along with other specially selected natural extracts like Kola Nut. Ensure a healthy Loc growth pattern by using FoamBurst Shampoo for complete cleansing of your Locs or Braids & Cornrows.)

Teenage Locs
Teenage locks, not surprisingly, tend to be the most rebellious. This period, from about three months until the hair is fully locked – usually about six to eighteen months – is one of budding and matting. Your locks at this time may need extra attention. You should groom them no less than once a month. Teenage locks have the tendency to bunch or crawl together. This is when the hair from one lock catches and starts to lock with another, and it can be problematic without regular grooming. If you do not keep the hair separated during each grooming session it will become necessary to pull the roots apart, which can be uncomfortable as well as make thin locks break off. To keep your teenage locks from crawling, make it a part of your daily grooming to check that each lock is not sharing a root with another. If it does start to mesh together gently separate it or it can be left to simply lock together.   (Cuticle Locking Creme can help here)

Teenage locks should still be washed gently but once the hair starts to bud and begin to mat you can massage the scalp gently. I also think that a hot oil treatment can be used at this point (provided you do not have oily hair) to give the hair moisture and much-needed conditioning. This may get a thumb down from some salon stylists who feel locks should still not be conditioned at this point, but the health of the individual's hair should be considered. If you do not condition, however, make sure natural oil is used after the hair is dry to aid in moisture retention.
(Tip for Oil Conditioning: Try the "new" Hair & Scalp THERAPY POMADE by Nubian Secrets also. This super lite pomade has natural Peanut Oil and Shea Butter which actually penetrates the hair shaft and not just coat it. This pomade is formulated extra-lite and does not weigh hair down. This is great for a very light oil conditioning of hair as well as the scalp. A tiny bit goes a long way.)

Mature Locs
You are finally there! Mature locks can withstand just about everything you give them. Mature locks can be washed and conditioned as often as you desire. You no longer have to retwist the hair either. It is simply up to the individual. The only thing left to achieve now it length and once you do the styling is endless. Longer mature locks can be braided, wet set on rollers for a curly look or pulled up or back. Mature locks should still be covered to keep them from picking up lint. You should also give yourself hot oils treatments as needed to ensure you maintain a good moisture balance so your mature locks do not become dry and break off.                      

(Tip for nourishing daily maintenance: For that ever-so-often Frizz-control and Rejuvenation of your Locs when they might tend to look dry, try spraying your Locs with Nubian Secrets' Herbal Lock Lotion spray conditioner.  This is not just another shine spray, but instead, a liquid elixir blend of natural extracts and vitamins combined for their bactericide properties as well as moisture retention for vibrancy.  The spray is very light and again will not build up as average sprays do.  The penetrating power is awesome and the fragrance will leave your Locs smelling attractive but not obviously over-bearing.)

A Final Word
It has been said that what we do with what God gave us makes us who we are. That is my motto when it comes to life, and to natural hair care. But change is not instant and it comes from within. We were given a gift was of this kink and coil in our hair. There is a joy and liberation in wearing one's natural hair. And our children feel this pride in culture and heritage too. Whether you choose a classic close cut, braids in bold patterns or lovely locks, let it be you -- naturally. Stay happy, stay nappy!

Try Nubian Secrets Products at   www.Braids-Dreds.com